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Amadablam Expedition

Grade : Technical Climbing | Max Altitude : 6812m

Challenging peak climbing | high energy-high metabolic boost | stunning alpine scenery of Everest | rejuvenation-creativity stimulating adventure

About Amadablam Expedition

Amadablam Expedition to the pyramid shaped 6812m peak, and is considered one of the most attractive climbing adventures in Nepal, and one of the most impressive mountains in the world. It was first summited by French climber Maurice Herzog on June 3, 1950. Amadablam expedition offers the experienced climber, a technical climb with stunning views from the exposed ridges and summit.

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Highlights

  • Moderately technical, physiological challenge
  • Stunning climb with innovative approach
  • Safety by Qualification, Experience, Quality
  • Sherpa operated Australian company
  • Well-designed exciting acclimatization
  • Trained  Sherpa climbing Guides

Departures

Autumn 2016:

Oct 15

Spring 2017:

Apr 15

  • Description
  • Itinerary
  • Services
  • FAQS
  • Gear
  • Map
 

About Amadablam Expedition

Amadablam Expedition to the pyramid shaped 6812m peak, and is considered one of the most attractive climbing adventures in Nepal, and one of the most impressive mountains in the world. It was first summited by French climber Maurice Herzog on June 3, 1950. Amadablam expedition offers the experienced climber, a technical climb with stunning views from the exposed ridges and summit.

Amadablam Expedition technical section is a short YDS 5.5 rock climb and also traverses an exposed knife-edge ridge. These technical, but not too difficult features, are the reasons for the popularity of the climb. This attracts moderate climbers, making the climb enjoyable and truly alpine.

Amadablam is located close to Lukla with only two days to walk out. On the way in, IMA offers an attractive and innovative acclimatization approach via Thame valley, Renjo La, Cho La with Lobuche East climb.

IMA Amadablam climb is designed by an exercise physiologist and experienced climber.

IMA offers a preparation program, for experienced trekkers and world-wide support for clients with sound advice on high altitude climbing.

Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu | Transfer

Day 2: Kathmandu Rest | Preparation

Day 3: Lukla Flight | Trek to Phakding

Day 4: Trek to Namche Bazaar

Day 5: Acclimatization in Khumjung

Day 6: Trek to Thame

Day 7: Trek to Lungden

Day 8-9: Trek to Gokyo/Acclimatization

Day 10: Trek to Dragnak

Day 11: Trek to Dzonghla via Cho La

Day 12: Trek to Lobuche BC

Day 13: Climb Lobuche East

Day 14: Trek to Dingboche | Kongma La

Day 15: Rest day | Dingboche

Day 16: Trek to Amadablam BC

Day 17-18: Contingency days in BC

Day 19-24: Climbing Amadablam

Day 25: Trek to Namche Bazaar

Day 26: Trek to Lukla

Day 27: Flight to Kathmandu

Day 28: Kathmandu | Weather contingency

Day 29: Kathmandu | Celebration Dinner

Day 30: Airport Transfer | Departure

Your adventure price includes:

  • Airport Welcome | Transfers
  • Hotel in Kathmandu | Breakfast Included
  • Full board Lodging (B/L/D) on Trek
  • TIMS Card
  • NMA permit to climb Lobuche East
  • Amadablam Climbing Permit | Expedition Liaison officer
  • Flight KTM-Lukla-KTM
  • Porters | Yaks to carry the loads BC-ABC-BC
  • Expedition Sherpa Guide/Sirdar Climb Manager
  • Experienced High altitude Sherpa Climbing Guide | 1:3 Guide-Client ratio
  • Experienced Expedition Cooks and Kitchen helpers
  • Quality tent ABC | high camps with sleeping mattress
  • All necessary climbing hardware gears including the ropes
  • Preferable meals at BC | higher camps
  • All the hot drinks with beverages during the expedition
  • Quality high altitude freeze dried food
  • EPI gas with stove for high camps
  • Walkie-talkie Radio set to each client with radio base at ABC
  • Daily wages | Insurance | equipment bonus for staff
  • Documentation | Office Service | Government Taxes
  • Comprehensive Pre-departure Information | Sound Advice | Guided Preparations
  • Celebration Dinner in Kathmandu

Infinite Mountain Adventure (IMA) operates Amadablam expedition in spring and autumn seasons. IMA Amadablam mountaineering expedition is a serious physiological undertaking with ridge climb in stunning alpine scenery and with 6000m acclimatization on Lobuche East climb and 3 5300m passes. There is no climbing or mountaineering experience required, just high level of endurance fitness. IMA will provide guided preparations for our clients.

Our guides are experienced and qualified young Sherpas from Kanchenjunga area. We provide extensive training to our staff in technical climbing as well as English, customer relationships and Mountaineering Outdoor First Aid. So apart of professionalism you can expect warmth and genuine hospitality of Sherpa and Tibetan culture.

Our staff is young, energetic and experience in customer relationship and technical climbing through our training program and practical experience. Our climbers are the only guides trained in western style climbing, critical thinking and ethical behaviour. Our guides are our business partners and participate in profit sharing scheme.

Simply click on SERVICES TAB, where you find all inclusions. If this is insufficient please send us e-mail to info@8mtb.com.

Absolutely not, all your gear will be delivered to Amadablam BC and to Lobuche East BC by a combination of yak and porter.

During the trek we will offer food in local lodges cooked to western taste. We employ trained high altitude cook. In the kitchen we attempt to provide tasty, nutritious and healthy food. There will be lots of emphasis on carbohydrates, which is needed as a source of energy and they are also much easier to digest. We will attempt to provide fresh vegetable as much as possible. Cook will have a wide range of culinary repertoire and expedition members are encouraged to request their personal favourites to promote good appetite and consumption of adequate amount calories despite general high altitude lack of appetite. Different flavours of tea as well as coffee, snacks, juice and hot water will be available 24 hours.

Absolutely all your food as well as accommodation is included from the time you leave Kathmandu until you return. In Kathmandu your breakfast is included and you will bear the cost of any other meals to allow you have a personal choice of restaurant. However if you wish to manage lodging bills yourself please do not select meals option on the trip cost calculator.

All foreign visitors to Nepal with exception of Indian nationals require Nepali visa. Passport holders of Australia, New Zealand, United States and all European countries are eligible for the visa on arrival. Since spring 2015 Nepali Immigration has introduced computerized automated visa system making arrival Immigration process fast and convenient. For Annapurna Bike-Trek adventure you will need 1 month visa.

Yes both permits for Lobuche East and Amadablam are included in the package and we will organize the permit prior to your arrival to Kathmandu.

Yes our representative will pick you up from Tribuvan International airport and will transfer you to the hotel. We monitor time of your arrival and we will be there on-time. All you need to do is to collect your luggage, clear customs and proceed to the outside of the terminal. Kathmandu International terminal is very small. Once you outside the building you will easily see your name displayed by our representative, who will transfer to the hotel.

In Kathmandu we use newly build Hotel De Veda, which meets earthquake proof building code and is located in quiet part of Thamel. On the trek we will offer accommodation in quality lodges with 3 meals included.

Yes you need sleeping bag, the -20°C rated sleeping bag should be sufficient. You will require it only for few nights in Lobuche East high camp as well as Amadablam BC and high camps.

Simply click on GEAR TAB, where you find recommended Gear List. If this is insufficient please send us e-mail to info@8mtb.com.

We recommend purchasing down gear as well as fleece and Gore-Tex jackets from Keamp8848 in Kathmandu. We use their gear as our personal gear for trekking, climbing and mountaineering due to innovative design and high quality manufacturing equivalent or better, for Himalayan use, to leading western brands but for fraction of the cost. If you require down suit you will need to order it one month prior to your arrival. Please contact us and we will assist you with the order.

You will also require basic climbing gear such as helmet, Ice-axe, crampons, climbing and trekking boots and following climbing hardware: alpine style of harness (Black Diamond Alpine Bod), ascender device, rappel device, minimum 4 karabiners (2 locking and 2 non-locking) and 4 Prusik loops (2 long and two short. Your info pack will contain details.

IMA recommends quality over price for comfort and safety and long term savings. Quality can be expensive but it doesn't have to be if one select right gear from right OEM. Naturally there is budget advantage of buying from quality Nepali OEM and you will pay 25-50% for similar or better designed Nepali gear comparing to leading US or European brands. We use and recommend Keamp8848 for quality, innovative design and the price. Your guide will direct you to Keamp8848 factory showroom in Thamel located only 5 minutes' walk from hotel De Veda. You should consider purchasing your Gore-Tex climbing/trekking jacket, Gore-Tex over pants, Fleece jacket and down jacket in Kathmandu. Another Nepali OEM to consider is Sonam brand, which has comparable pricing to Keamp8848, however quality of fabric is different and it lacks innovative design features of Keamp8848.

Climbing hardware is readily available in numerous trekking/climbing stores in Kathmandu, so you don't need to bring them on the plane and save the weight of your luggage. We will advise you details within you info pack.

Apply Layering Principle while Trekking and Climbing

While biking and trekking in any mountainous undulating environment and in particularly at high altitudes where the weather is also a subject to rapid changes one needs to adopt layering principle with clothing to regulate body temperature ensuring that the body temperature stays in comfortable range to prevent excessive sweating followed by rapid cooling. When you start the day wear sufficient number of layers to keep warm but as soon as you feel overheating remove a layer on the go quickly to prevent unnecessary overheating and sweating.

Take advantage of Merino Wool as a first layer

For layer one garments we recommend Merino Wool from Icebreaker because the company understands climbers and mountaineers needs and utilizes the best quality material. No other company can at this stage (spring 2015) match Icebreaker quality. The quality in extreme conditions is essential for your comfort and safety. Merino wool is the finest wool and it matches cotton with softness and polypropylene with insulation and breathing-ability because it takes moisture away from the body and keeps you dry and warm.

Utilize Merino Moisture Wicking, Insulation and Antibacterial Properties

The process of taking the moisture away from the body is called wicking. Wool and synthetic fabrics are really good wicking materials hence they are very suitable to wear for hard physical activity such as trekking, mountain biking and climbing. Due to its natural nano-tube construction wool has also antibacterial properties, so it stays usable for much longer. It is slightly more expensive then polypropylene so is bike riding, trekking and climbing. Using cotton shirts for trekking, mountain biking or climbing in high altitude is a wrong and dangerous approach, which can lead to hypothermia.

Our Amadablam climb has been designed by an experienced climber and exercise physiologist selecting the best innovative acclimatization sequence and minimum time spent in the busy Basecamp fighting for access to high camps.

The Amadablam climb consists of serious of acclimatization trek via Thame valley and 3 5300m passes Renjo La, Cho La and Kongma La and Lobuche climb followed by a short summit campaign. We ensure that climbs and crossing passes offer a short rest including rest before attempting Amadablam summit. Being appropriately acclimatized we offer direct climb from the basecamp to the summit with C1, C2 and C3 high camps. This is our signature innovative approach with a focus on acclimatization offering the best possible chance to summit.

The risks during the Amadablam climb are potential to develop AMS, gastric problems or physical injury such as bleeding or frostbites. IMA maintains programs and procedures to prevent and avoid all the above. We have appropriately equipped and up-to-dated First Aid Kit and train staff how to use it effectively. We require each group member to have valid Travel Insurance, which allows Medivac. We treat AMS, gastric issues, bleeding and frostbite. If required we activate emergency evacuation. There is no helicopter rescue available in Tibet and all rescues are by car and maybe fly-out from Lhasa depending on circumstances.

There are some risks associated with natures' activities such as excessive unseasonal snowfall or landslide blocking the path and potential earthquake. We have developed western style and quality emergency and evacuation procedures to ensure safety on our adventure, which includes double back-up communication channels to our office in Kathmandu to assists us with any emergency.

Yes, all climbers are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which doesn't exclude helicopter emergency evacuation. Insurance is not expensive compering to the cost of expedition and potential cost of evacuation.

Acute Altitude Sickness (AMS) is the reaction of the body adjusting to decreasing amount of oxygen in the bloodstream. The higher the altitude, the less oxygen is available for the body to carry on normal functions. This is caused by decreased partial pressure of Oxygen, a difference between external and intercellular pressures.

Altitude sickness most commonly occurs from above 2,800m but this is different for everyone - there is simply no way of knowing your own susceptibility prior to being at the altitude thus it is vital you monitor your own health. In principle higher cardiovascular fitness decreases susceptibility to AMS. Symptoms of AMS may be mild and subside/go away after a day's rest, or if it ignored it could lead to serious health issues including death. All biking adventure participants are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which doesn't exclude helicopter emergency evacuation.

Symptoms can appear within 1-2 hours although most often appear 6-10 hours after ascent and generally subside in 1-2 days as the body adjusts to altitude. They may reappear as you continue to go higher. Symptoms of AMS usually occur gradually and can be one or a combination of the following:

  • Headache
  • Difficulty sleeping
  • Shortness of breath
  • Loss of appetite
  • Disturbed sleep or drowsiness
  • Irritability
  • Fatigue
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Dizziness
  • Rapid pulse
  • Swelling of hands, feet & face

Symptoms generally associated with more severe Acute Mountain Sickness include:

  • Bluish discoloration of the skin (cyanosis)
  • Chest tightness or congestion
  • Confusion
  • Cough
  • Coughing up blood
  • Decreased consciousness or withdrawal from social interaction
  • Grey or pale complexion
  • Inability to walk in a straight line, or to walk at all
  • Shortness of breath at rest

At high altitude all people will experience some of the above symptoms in a mild form. If the body is unable to adjust to altitude these symptoms will persist and, if they are left untreated, altitude sickness may progress to High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) or High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Edema means simply fluid accumulation in your interstitial body tissues. Both HACE and HAPE can be fatal if ignored.

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HAPE (fluid in the lungs)?

  • Breathlessness
  • A dry cough, developing to a wet one with blood-tinged discharge or saliva
  • Tightness in the chest & blueness/darkness of face, lips & tongue
  • Low fever up to 38°C/100°F
  • Severe fatigue, progressing to coma

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HACE (fluid in the brain)?

  • Severe headache symptoms not relieved by painkillers or lying down
  • Confusion, disorientation & drowsiness
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Loss of balance or coordination
  • Blurred or double vision/retinal haemorrhage

Certain medical conditions (such as respiratory disease) or medications (such as sleeping pills) can increase the risk of altitude sickness - it is important that you inform your guide of any medical conditions or medications before ascending to altitude. You can help your body to acclimatise and avoid altitude sickness by:

  • Avoiding alcohol, tobacco and substances that can interfere with good delivery of oxygen to the body
  • Eating small, frequent meals high in carbohydrates
  • Drinking plenty of water; the test of sufficient amount of water intake is ability to urinate colourless urine
  • Taking it easy or have a rest. Walk at a slower pace than you would at sea level and avoid over-exertion
  • Climb the mountain gradually and stop for a day or two of rest for every 600m above 2,400m
  • Sleep at a lower altitude when possible
  • Learn how to recognize early symptoms of mountain sickness

WHAT IS THE TREATMENT?

Most travellers are able to successfully acclimatise by following the previously mentioned guidelines. However, there are instances where medical treatment is required. Ultimately, the best treatment for AMS is to descend to a lower altitude and rest. Early diagnosis is important. Acute mountain sickness is easier to treat in the early stages.

Our guides have training and experience in AMS symptoms recognition, prevention and treatment. The guide will monitor your all the time for symptoms and will pace you appropriately to minimize your exposure to AMS.We ask you to cooperate with the guide by reporting any above described symptoms and allow your guide to undertake appropriate and timely action such as take a rest and have a drink or snack, help you to carry your day pack or change a pace, take extra day rest or descent if necessary.

Your Guide will carry some medications in First Aid Kit and may suggest medication such as Ibuprophen, Paracetamol, combination of them or specific AMS medication. Standard and effective medication for prevention of AMS is Acetazolamide (Diamox) and it may be given to help improve breathing and reduce mild symptoms. This drug can cause increased urination. Ensure you drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol when taking this drug.

With severe cases of AMS our guide will contact our Kathmandu office and arrange your evacuation by helicopter. Before we accept you on the trek we will require that you purchase health and travel insurance including helicopter rescue and hospitalization.

Amadablam expedition is a very serious physiological undertaking with some technical aspect. You should be in general good physical shape to start with. Generally our customers for Amadablam expedition are bike riders or recreational runners and many test themselves with occasional 10km city fun runs or 50km mountain bike rides or 100km road rides. Considerable number of clients have at some stage completed marathon run. You don't need to be competitive just to be able to complete run or ride within average event time. If you completed one of the above within last 6 months you are well pre-qualifying and ready for Amadablam expedition.

If you are in a good shape, the only thing you have to do now is 3 month ramp-up before the adventure. You should aim to jog three to four times weekly trying to get your 10km within 1 hour or 100km road ride within 5 hours, which will mean that you can sustain continuous exercise. To prepare for that you should preference outdoor step training or riding hills minimum twice a week. The more hills and steps you manage to get in, the more enjoyable the ride will be and you will also get more benefits out of the adventure.

There is section of low grade mixed ice rock climb where you need to be able to rappel with confidence. We offer rappel clinics in Australia, so please contact us about it.

WHY DO IT?...

Part of doing the adventure is the aspect of motivation, and setting your goals and meeting them. The adventure participation will be beneficial to you in all aspects of your personal and professional endeavours. Our exercise suggestions are designed for you get fitter and hopefully influence your healthy lifestyle as result of the ride.

Please ask us for detailed advice.

The adventure is scheduled during spring and autumn with the climbing window scheduled for monsoon change period, where wind stops at 8000m for a week or so before the monsoon changes direction. Please check average temperature and precipitation in Lobuche here.

The difference between spring and autumn expedition is change of temperatures from cold to warmer and from warmer to cold respectively.

Absolutely, we welcome individual travellers on our fixed departure but we reserve the right to cancel the departure due to insufficient participation and to offer alternative departure. We require a minimum group of 4 participants. Naturally we will offer group prices for people joining as a group. Our adventure calculator will show you adventure of joining us together with friends.

Complete the booking form on the adventure page, select size of your group and required services and find out price for your group. Simply click on BOOK/INQUIRE button and give us required details. We will send you invoice for the deposit of 30% of the trip value. After paying deposit for the trip we will send you booking confirmation and Shishapangma Climbing Information. The balance is due 2 months prior departure. The deposit as well as the balance may be paid by bank money transfer or by Credit Card via secure PayPal system.

Simply complete BOOKIG/INQUIRE form and specify information you require in the message and we will engage with you by e-mail or if you prefer we will call you at the time convenient to you.

IMA Amadablam expedition is scheduled during spring and autumn, when the weather is typically good with sunny days. However Everest area is subject to very changable mountain weather with possible snow storms and unexpected cold snaps and unseasonal weather.

You will require appropriate Gore-Tex windproof jacket, over pants and down gear including down jacket and down pants or full down suit for the climb. IMA Amadablam expedition is designed as an alpine style of climb so you will require only one down sleeping bag for the basecamp and for high camps.

Amadablam is challenging technical climb with the route protected by fix lines and you will require only a basic climbing gear including climbing boots, crampons, ice-axe, alpine harness, accessory Prusik loops, karabiners, ascender and rappel device.

Tap on button below to download PDF file.

If this is insufficient please Send Email with all questions you may have.

Please note, that the Gear List is only recommendation and you must choose the quantity of clothing ensuring that it will be sufficient to keep you warm and comfortable without excessive luggage.

Tour Map:

IMA Amadablam Expedition-Amadablam from Everest View HotelIMA Amadablam Expedition-Amadablam BasecampIMA Amadablam Expedition-Amadablam BasecampIMA Amadablam Expedition-Amadablam Camp 2IMA Amadablam Expedition-Amadablam BasecampIMA Amadablam Expedition-Amadablam from Khumjung

CUSTOMIZE YOUR TRIP

Airport-Hotel Transfers
Food in Basecamp
Personal tent in Basecamp
Return flight KTM-Lukla-KTM
Camping gear in BC
Dining-Kitchen facilities in BC
Camping gear/Food in high camps
Guide-Client ratio 1:3
Staff salary
Required climbing gear
Complementary crampons/ice-axe
Porter Service to BC
Farewell Dinner

Single room
De Veda hotel or equivalent
4 nights


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